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Boating Links Boat Publications Weather National Weater Service Water Temperature Guide Tide Tables View the Tide Table for Your State Fishing Recreational Boating and Fishing International Game Fish Association United States Fish & Wildlife Service Texas - Galveston Fishing Guides Texas - Jim's Gulf Coast Fishing Coast Guard Online Charts National Weather Service Marine Charts
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Hub Replacement Prop Repair Skeg Repair Cavitation Plate Repair We repair propellers by adding back diameter whenever possible; welding to replace missing material to return the propeller to full diameter. We have pitch blocks for most props enabling us to restore damaged props' pitch angles; in most cases back to or better than factory specifications. Repair prices are based on size, type & material of propeller; welding is additional depending on how much material is missing. Call or Fax for Repair Estimates... Click For Price List Phone: 409 769-8530 Fax: 409769-8939 Basic Propeller Information
Pitch
is defined as the theoretical forward movement of a propeller during one
revolution –– assuming there is no “slippage” between the propeller blade and
the water. For most boats, there is slippage and therefore the distance advanced
is less than the design pitch. The amount of slippage varies from boat to boat.
Pitch is the second number listed in the propeller description.
Rake is the degree that the blades slant forward or backwards in relation to the hub. Rake can affect the flow of water through the propeller, and as implications with respect to boat performance. Aft Rake helps to trim the bow of the boat upwards, which often results in less wetted surface area and therefore higher top end speed. Aft rake propellers also typically “bite” better on ventilating type applications. Forward, or negative rake, helps hold the bow of the boat down. This is more common in workboat type applications.
Ventilation is a situation where surface air or exhaust gasses are drawn
into the propeller blades. When this situation occurs, boat speed is lost and
engine RPM climbs rapidly. This can result from excessively tight cornering, a
motor that is mounted very high on the transom, or by over-trimming the engine.
Cavitation, (which is often confused with ventilation), is a phenomena of
water vaporizing or “boiling” due to the extreme reduction of pressure on the
back of the propeller blade. Many propellers partially cavitate during normal
operation, but excessive cavitation can result in physical damage to the
propeller’s blade surface due to the collapse of microscopic bubbles on the
blade.
There
may be numerous causes of cavitation such as incorrect matching of propeller
style to application, incorrect pitch, physical damage to the blade edges,
etc...
Be
advised disturbances in the water flow forward of the propeller can result in
blade damage which appears to be blade cavitation, but is actually due to
non-favorable water flow into the propeller.
Propeller
diameter, pitch, and slip
is the
difference between actual and theoretical travel of the propeller blades through
water. A properly matched propeller will actually move forward about 80 to
90 percent of the theoretical pitch.
![]() Over-hub exhaust propellers have the blades attached directly to the smaller tube that fits over the propeller shaft, eliminating the larger exhaust tube. These types of propellers are often used for attaining maximum top speeds. (On some boats, the hole shot can often suffer due to the extreme exhaust flooding that occurs around the propeller blades during acceleration.) ![]() Thru-hub exhaust and over-hub exhaust propellers are used on boats where the exhaust passes out though the rear of the “torpedo” on the lower unit, around the propeller shaft. Most outboards utilize this type of exhaust. Over/Thru-hub exhaust propellers are a combination of thru-hub and over-hub exhaust propellers. This allows some exhaust to escape at lower RPM, providing a controlled amount of exhaust flooding. These types of propellers will allow the propeller to be slightly easier to turn during initial acceleration, allowing for a better hole shot on some engine/boat combinations. Non thru-hub exhaust propellers are used for inboards using shaft driven propellers, stern drives using through hull exhaust, and on some outboards that don’t route the exhaust through the lower unit torpedo. Aluminum vs. Stainless Steel: Aluminum propellers are relatively inexpensive, easy to repair, and under normal conditions can last for many years. Stainless steel is more expensive, but much stronger and durable than aluminum. If you are looking for better performance than can be provided by your aluminum propeller, such as ultimate top speed or better acceleration, a stainless steel propeller may be required.
Determining RPM:
Determine the Wide Open Throttle (WOT) RPM
for
safety and efficient performance, it is critical that your engine operates
within the RPM range recommended by the manufacturer. Matching the right prop
for the load is the most significant factor of RPM adjustment.
Determine Manufacturer’s Recommended RPM. Find the manufacturer’s recommended RPM range in the owner’s manual or ask your dealer.
Test for Maximum RPM. Using the existing propeller or a new propeller,
make test runs to determine the maximum RPM and boat speed. Vary the trim angle
for optimum performance. ![]() RPM Lower Than Recommended. If the actual WOT RPM range is below the recommended range, install the next smaller pitch propeller to increase your WOT RPM. Re-test the WOT RPM.
When
you combine all these factors, you have the information you need to select the
correct propeller for maximum performance, safety, and fuel efficiency. |
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Info@southeastexsports.com with questions or comments about this web site.
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